The Wandering Two…

“A fool is one who admires other cities without visiting Rome.”    – Francesco Petrarca

Perhaps it’s the wet, wintery Spring, or a tumultuous Italian political climate: Rome welcomes us refreshingly cleansed of the crush of wanton tourism.

We arrive for our annual European residenza at a lovely flat in Rome’s leafy Prati neighborhood. This is a welcome upgrade from previous select “gone native” accommodations.

Our theme for this trip is “no suffering,” which builds on last year’s very successful motif of “as and when…”  Having a spontaneous lunch when wind and rain sabotage planned excursions by foot, is putting our mantra into practice.

Energetic strolls in any direction from our post-war (WWI) apartment building yield abundant charms of the Eternal City. We are on the “other side” of the rising waters of the Tevere, seemingly distant from the teeming Center, yet just a kilometer from Piazza del Popolo, our former reference point for La Dolce Vita.

Needless to say, we casually take in the simple delights Rome so warm-heartedly provides. Our working vocabulary of “restaurant Italian” seems to open additional dimensions of hospitality and smiles.

To summarize: we walk glistening, moist cobbled streets, sip “molto calda” caffe lattes at revered cafes, eat modestly given the potential seduction of gluttony, navigate between unpredicatable showers with grace and good cheer, and most triumphantly, relax more than ever at the outset of adventure.

We will allow photos to provide most of the pertinent particulars…

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“…and if I ain’t happy here, then I ain’t happy nowhere    
New Mexico rain, when my mind starts to roam.”

                            -Micheal Hearn, Taos cowboy singer

Summer …in New Mexico?

Yup, we love it. For the last 3 years, we return here each August, for a “someplace-else residence.”  The weather is comfortable with temps usually low 80’s. Often an afternoon thundershower cools and refreshes, for a dramatic 30 minutes.

This is high desert – altitude 7200 ft. – bright sun with clear, clean breezes.

What is there to do in New Mexico?

Our friend says Santa Fe is “55 square miles of altered space surrounded by reality”. Great food – southwestern and international, a center for arts, hiking in dramatic settings, horseback riding, biking, lovely architecture, spas, open-air opera, home-grown music at historic Bandstand in town center, day trips to surrounding towns and reservations, fascinating people, relaxing in an “other worldly” environment.

All this is magnified with the pleasure of sharing a week-end with Rob and Kelly (bro & sis-in-law) and reunions with old friends.

Where did ya’ stay?

We rent a comfy guest house in Tesuque Village hills, about 10 minutes from town center. We are minutes from Santa Fe Opera’s cantilevered pavilion. The main house on our property is owned by a prominent gallery owner, Bill Siegal. who specializes in rare pre-Colombian art and textiles. He also advises on the best restaurants and happenings around town! We are able to wander out our always-unlocked door and explore the arroyos and shaded lanes around the Tesuque reservation.

You mentioned Opera and music…

Santa Fe Opera is world-renowned as a remarkable venue favored by established divas and emerging artists. The summer program is a mix of classics and new, often experimental offerings. The (R)evolution of Steve Jobs, a world premiere, drew controversial comments and twitters. We also see Donizetti’s pleasing Lucia Di Lammermoor and, “since we have a free evening,” enjoy Alcina, by Handel, produced with imaginative staging.

The summer Bandstand in town Plaza is a rich amalgam of southwest-flavored Americana. Most summer evenings, under approaching darkness, locals and tourists gather to dance, listen, and in some cases, just “groove.” The considerable talent: folk, Spanish, Native American, country & western, dance, drumming circles, Tex-Mex, and rock is drawn from across the region.

We thrill and are truely touched by the unrestrained joy and intimacy of people at the gatherings: unrepentant hippies, ranchers, cowgirls, Native Americans, Texas bling tourists, gender-benders, aging vets, kids trance dancin’.

Musically, several acts tore it up. Austin legend Dale Watson and his Lonestars are the real rhinestone deal. David Berkeley, thoughtful singer-songwriter, displayed star quality waiting to break-out. Chris Arellano and his trio revealed the heart of Nortena music of Colorado/New Mexico. Detroit Lightening recreated the seminal vibe of the Grateful Dead for 90 minutes of acid-tinged bliss!

…and your daily outdoor activities?

Each day we return to, or discover, new gems among the countless hiking trails that define the region. Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, 40 miles from Santa Fe, astounds with “layers of volcanic rock and ash deposited by pyroclastic flow.”  Rusty arroyos on the Tesuque reservation, streams, waterfalls, and sweeping vistas along Santa Fe National Forest, are accessible within minutes to transport us to majestic tranquility.

One special outing was riding horses at Ghost Ranch in Rio Arriba, among the geography that inspired many of Georgia O’Keefe’s paintings. My trustworthy steed, Arthur, provided a sound transport, and knew the way home for an extra ration of alfalfa!

What are the art galleries like?

Santa Fe and surrounding communities, Taos, Galisteo, Truchas, are home to hundreds of artists who are represented in scores of quality galleries. Canyon Road is a charming walk that features an array of fine art – everything from “coyotes howling at the moon” and museum-quality native crafts, to stunning abstractions from international painters and sculptors. We have several pieces in our collection from these sources. NuArt and Evoke galleries are particular favorites.

Did you have time to eat?

 Well, …we made time. The reach and diversity of food we enjoy is impressive:

• Cafe Pasqual’s – pioneering Southwestern and global ethnic food from southern latitudes
• Sazon – new 4-star Mexican restaurant with exquisite moles, stunning art, and extensive tequila/mescal bar.
• Paper Dosa – spicy, authentic South (Asian) Indian
• Tune-up Café – homey local favorite featuring Salvadorian accents.
• Plaza Café – classic diner serving comfort food with regional flavors. Honest cup of “joe”.
• Jamba Café – funky and tasty African and Jamaican dishes.
• Radish and Rye – elegant “farm to fork” food amid stylish art and garden setting.
• Vinaigrette – insanely fresh and imaginative salads; ridiculous carrot cake.
• Tesuque Village Market – our local hangout for coffee, cinnamon buns, and gossip.
• Best dinner of all was lamb tagine, home-garden-grown salad, and rainbow sunset at the home of friends, Heidi and Zev Guber.

Did you nurture your spirit?

Soakings at Sunrise Springs Spa; metaphysical conversations in a yogic study circle with local seekers; daily gratitude for simply being alive in the “Land of Enchantment”.

…”if I ain’t happy here, I ain’t happy nowhere…”

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Hot town, summer in the city
Back of my neck getting dirty and gritty
Been down, isn’t it a pity
Doesn’t seem to be a shadow in the city

Cool town, evening in the city
Dressing so fine and looking so pretty
Cool cat, looking for a kitty
Gonna look in every corner of the city  

– John Sabastian 

Not sure it was business or pleasure that called first, in either case we respond with a passionate, heck yeah! NYC for a week in early June. Unexpectedly, enter a wintery chill and exit a summer’s fever – no problem, we’ll roll with the climate.

From our Mid-town digs we are able to stroll up/downtown with familiar ease. The center of gravity in Manhattan has shifted: Chelsea, Soho, and Tribeca now mirror the shops, restaurants, museums, and buzz that once defined 5^th Ave and Madison. Throngs of tourists mix with emulsified “locals”; everyone is eager to claim this international emblem as their own, and it is easy to do.

“Your huddled masses, yearning to breathe free…”

When foot weary, or seeking cool, effortless retreat, we “Uber”. Best part of this wondrous digital conveyance is chatting with drivers, and getting their stories. Tajik, Sikh, Pak, Puerto Rican, Irish, African American – all are happy to share their experience in the “gig” economy, bits of their history, and their take on the City.

“Send these, the homeless, tempest tost to me, I lift my lamp…”

We seek shelter from sudden onset of heat (mid-90’s) at Broadway matinees, museums, and the cuddle of mohair upholstery at 5-star hotel lounges. Retail establishments also provide a welcome relief, and a few baubles. (We get crazy at Uniqlo’s 5^th Ave global melting pot!)

Tony-nominated productions the week of the Awards (Radio City on Sunday) deliver a cultural boost: The Comet of 1812 was a whirlwind of sound, energy and light; actors and action spinning everywhere in musical cameos from War and Peace. The intimacy that was lacking in faux Tolstoy is powerfully present in A Doll’s House, Part 2 – Ibsen updated with superb acting and gripping themes of marriage and commitment. (Laurie Metcalf wins Best Actress). Indecent, a Sunday afternoon gem that connects morality, history, and love unfolding around the “little Yiddish play” God of Vengeance. (Tony for Best direction).

We live not by culture alone. Nourishment in the Big Apple commands our attention and provides dreamy comforts: Thai food in our ‘hood on 34^th, Mediterranean perfection at Boulud Sud, Roman invention at Danny Meyer’s Maialino, Milanese classics at Sant Ambroeus, organic burgers at Bareburger on 3^rd Ave., Café Boulud’s exquisite presentation of French-fusion; and superb Red Farm on UWS Broadway, my Asian (Chinese) fav!

The Metropolitan Museum of Art is fantastic. I correct my impression based on long-ago visits, of stogy collections and displays. Wow! The Met, and its new modern annex, Met Breuer on Madison Ave (offering touring exhibits) – a visual textbook of remarkable works spanning the entire History of Art, curated in wonderful relaxed, spaces. The Met Gala helps pay the rent! Thank you, Anna Wintour and Leonard Lauder. Bravo!

New York City, is alive, thriving, and vibrant. “Nice place to visit…”

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