The Wandering Two...

The Road from Ruin

Posted on May 17, 2020 by Howard Goldman

“Now, on this road trip, my mind seemed to uncrinkle, to breathe, to present to itself a cure for a disease it had not, until now, known it had.” – Elizabeth Berg, Novelist

Things change dramatically every day in the first 2 weeks of March, 2020.

Good instincts (Divine guidance?) allow us to pull the plug on our EU “sabbatical” just a few days before planned departure on March 8 – to Milan!

Instead, we head out via car into the vast protection of the American Southwest.

Spend three glorious days in Sedona, AZ at quirky Cozy Cactus. Our access to the majestic, sacred Vortex distances us from the gathering global panic. Traveling onward, we hope to “weather the storm” in Santa Fe – eating New Mexican food, staying in Old Town at historic Casa Culinaria.

We remain vigilant and attempt to minimize exposure to infection, and fear. Our chances seem reasonable – when we arrive, there are a total of 3 reported Covid-19 cases in New Mexico: 2 people returned from NYC, 1 from Milan.

After a week of agitated uncertainty, given hourly proclamations of escalating restriction by the Governor of New Mexico, we determine to flee the illusion of protected anchorage, and return home to tough it out in our familiar environs.

“Breakin’ rocks in the hot sun…Guess our race is run…We fought the Law and the Law won!” (so goes our version of the old 60’s rock and roll song)

So…. we head back home in a crazy 2-day run. Along with the “kickers” and the truckers, we bear witness to a new chapter of the American West. In the opposite direction on former Route 66, a monumental column of cars and RV’s move across the Arizona desert fleeing the unknown consequences of California’s lockdown.

“Stay safe and sane” now means more than just kind sentiment, it guides the GPS of exposed lives on the road from ruin.

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Covid Chronicles: Part One

Posted on May 10, 2020 by Howard Goldman

“China is a big country, inhabited by many Chinese.”
― Charles de Gaulle

This episode (1 of 3) traces the first leg of our virus diaries – an arc of travel, uncertainty, and sequester that define this year.

We begin 2020 in Beijing.

A frigid storm precedes our arrival yielding crystal blue days with brilliant sun.

The Virus, unbeknownst to us, was smoldering 1200 miles away in Wuhan, flickering only as obscure footnotes in international news.

Beijing reveals itself as a tableau of broad, inscrutable contrasts: Cosmopolitan prosperity – eager, surveilled, and compliant. Beneath the façade of astounding growth is lingering impoverishment.

We are energized by the scale of the capital. Commanding thoroughfares open to broad pedestrian shopping streets and gaudy westernized malls. Immense apartments blocks, ranging from grand to squalid, shoulder grey government bureaucracies. Imperial landmarks (Forbidden City) are ringed by feudal residential labyrinths (Hutongs).

A fascinating afternoon is spent wandering through 798 Art Zone, a complex of old decommissioned military factories presenting haunting architectural frames that house flowering artistic communities. A promising dimension of the “People’s” revolution is evident in quirky expressions in this vast industrial tract – unmuted art testing iron limits of political authority.

Although we seek simple, uncomplicated fare at local restaurants, we can’t resist the urgings of friends to sample TRB Hutong, a restored temple in a functioning working-class neighborhood. Surrounding lanes are narrow. The taxi driver unceremoniously drops us off 2 blocks from the entrance, and we are guided to the door by kind elderly locals.

We are treated to surprising rewards. Tasteful surroundings, friendly personalized service, and inventive French fusion are notable at this ambitious star in the world culinary scene.

At New Year’s matinee. we are lone westerners excitedly attending traditional Chinese Opera. Prior to curtain lifting, seven strict rules are announced – in Mandarin and, surprisingly, English: “No Standing; No Photos; No Videos; No Speaking; No Eating; No Smoking; No Nothing.”

Lights are dimmed. Shrill, piercing voices and ritual dancers trace meticulous observance of this classic form. We are spellbound. Quietly at first, we sense the audience slowly violating every stated prohibition – photographs, eating, talking, standing, smoking…tossing flowers!

Perhaps, festering behind the obedient wall of China is an ungovernable spirit of 1.5 billion souls.

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All images captured and edited on iPhone 11 Pro Max.

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