Stations of the Crossing

“O, how this spring of love resembleth
The uncertain glory of an April day;
Which now shows all the beauty of the sun,
And by and by a cloud takes all away.”

– The Two Gentleman of Verona

North from Florence, over Apennine Centrale mountains, across fruited Emilia-Romagna, we enter storied Verona.

Romeo e Giulietta’s ‘hood, quietly, may be the most lovely city in Italy. It is certainly one of our favorites; offering aged marble pavement over which this Northern beauty reveals itself.

The Adige River winds around the ancient walls and describes Verona from the industrial flats stretching from Milan to Venice.

Each day we drive down the hill from our homey B+B Villa Beatrice, then on foot, over Roman-built Ponte Pietra (stone bridge) to enter a Disney-like portal. We work our way to central Piazza della Erbe, an exquisite square that is fixed in our memories. The attraction? Salades (warm octopus and potato, or mango and avocado), Soavé wine, and addictive regional breadsticks, served at stylish Café Mazzanti, front row to the vibrant opera passing before us.

At the table next to us, a pony-tailed Mexican tennis pro is spotted by a group of school kids visiting from Vera Cruz. They seek a polite audience. He graciously takes “selfie-stick” photos and hugs them wrapped in the national banner. They are launched into spasms of joy.

The town seems prosperous despite the greater economic worry in Southern Europe. Citizens inspire with defining fashion, and Verona functions as a real community not solely dependant on tourists. Shops feature designs of fine interior fabrics and furnishings, and the best Neapolitan-tailored clothing.

The centerpiece of our attention is airy, breathtaking Sant’Anastasia, an exquisite Dominican church built from 1290-1481. We are transfixed by magnificent pre-Easter rehearsals of choir, organ, and orchestra. (Bach, Handel, and, yes, Ennio Morricone – spaghetti western composer).

Our host at Villa Beatrice, Simone, along with his loving Romanian bride, Angelica, look after us starting with fresh-squeezed ginger spiced juices and home-baked rice cake.

We begin each day wandering around the hills above Verona, with Shanti our “rent-a-dog” from the B+B.

Verona dining is basic treats – Margarita Pizze con Burata, garden harvested insalata mista. For a special meal: calf’s liver with creamy polenta at romantic Da Ugo.

We take a crazed side trip to Venice via the train, avoid crowds exploring working neighborhood canals and plazas, and return tired yet enriched by what we consider a living museum.

Bolzano/Bozen, nestled in the “Italian” Dolomites, qualifies as the most livable city in Italy. Historically Teutonic, the Trentino Alto Adige region, became part of Italy after WWII.

As far as we can tell, it is not geography, or altitude, or geology, or language (50% Italian / 50% German) which demarks this cultural transition – it’s fiber! Braun brot, muesli, dried figs, fresh fruits, prunes, hazelnuts, walnuts, pumpkin and flax seeds.

Each day starts with a hearty frühstück, which fuels our energy for hiking and biking among the castled mountains and valleys. Exploring the charms of this intelligent city by bike is a vision of civic refinement.

Hotel Hanny, is a proper family run hotel that allows us to stretch out, wash our undies, and enjoy the regional fare prepared by owner Karl Riegler and his family.

Bolzano, is mountaineering Mecca, and we make a point to worship at the HQ of Alpine gear manufacturer Salewa, and their amazing climbing “cube”, set among the granite cliffs of the Sud Tyrol.

We move through the stations of our remarkable journey.

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