Breakfast in the Marais

“The image foreigners have of French cuisine is fattening and very fancy food. But it’s not true – French food isn’t just rich. The word “healthy” doesn’t exist in French. We have many, many words, but not that one. To me, healthy means paying close attention to feeding people.”

– Alain Ducasse, French Chef 

Footsteps away from the stately red door of our Paris apartment, we access a vibrant marketplace of shops to provision our morning repast – le petit déjeuner. 

Our residence, on Boulevard de Sébastopol, is in the 4th Arrondissement – Le Marais. We are adjacent to the heart of the City of Light, yet resting just outside the crush of tourism. 

Le Marais, formerly the Royal Quarter, survived the Revolution and subsequent upheavals, notably Baron Haussmann’s total renovation of Paris. This eclectic neighborhood welcomes us today, almost a living museum of architectural styles and energetic urban life. 

Once shabby, the district now thrives and allows us to mingle with tattooed hipsters, dutiful workers, artisans, Chinese merchants, observant Jews, young families, manicured parks, boutiques, and bustling sidewalk cafes. 

In devoted French custom, we embark upon local shopping traditions. Each element of tomorrow’s breakfast is painstakingly procured from proud vendors offering quality that suits our newly elevated taste. We are serious about training to acquire the best, damn it!

Our search for la qualité demands careful planning and directs us to explore both familiar and new. In our search, we gain access to the character of the neighborhood and the charm of its people. It’s like we’ve lived here…forever!

“Bonjour, Madame!”

Maison Poilâne bakes hearty Pain de Campagne. Since 1932, they have been renowned for wholemeal breads which we thinly slice, toast darkly, and top with extravagant fruit jam. 

The Algerian greengrocer at La Bonne Pomme commends crisp Envy apples from Spain. He carefully weighs the premium fruit, and graciously places it in our cloth sack. 

With each merchant we exercise our dormant high-school language skills which draw polite smiles. We are again in full command of “hello” and “thank you”!

“Merci Monsieur!”

Madame Nicole Barthélémy assists with selecting cheese at her glorious fromagerie: delicate “in season” goat cheeses, redolent Pont-l’Évêque from Normandy, regal 3-year old Comté, and a creamy Saint Nectaire Fermier (which ought to be a controlled substance). 

We discover Beurre de Baratte Doux (unsalted butter) from the Loire Valley, and heavenly Greek yogurt at Le Bon Marché, which we approach as recreational drugs as well. 

“Merci, Mademoiselle!”

Monoprix Gourmet, a larger market, surprisingly offers still-warm seeded baguettes, Scottish oatcakes, and Illy Italian coffee. We’re composing a symphony of complimentary flavors. 

An attentive grocer at Épicerie Causses delights in recommending: Daniel Boudet’s Pyrenees black cherry confiture; Turkish dried figs tied with hemp, Spanish roasted almonds. A few days later we return to restock, and express gratitude for his generous guidance. 

Our morning tableau is complemented by fresh cut tulips from a fragrant corner flower stand. Yes, these blooms really do dance toward the sunlight at our table. 

“Au revoir, Monsieur.”

Paris’s abundant Michelin-Star restaurants are renowned gastronomic destinations. We, however, have discovered an alternative path to alimentary ecstasy. 

Our array of delicacies may not be exactly what average Parisians consume each day. However, it is our earnest homage to the French love and respect for great food. 

“Bon Appetit!”

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All images captured and edited on iPhone 13 Pro Max. Click on any pic to ride the photo caurosel.