“China is a big country, inhabited by many Chinese.”
― Charles de Gaulle
This episode (1 of 3) traces the first leg of our virus diaries – an arc of travel, uncertainty, and sequester that define this year.
We begin 2020 in Beijing.
A frigid storm precedes our arrival yielding crystal blue days with brilliant sun.
The Virus, unbeknownst to us, was smoldering 1200 miles away in Wuhan, flickering only as obscure footnotes in international news.
Beijing reveals itself as a tableau of broad, inscrutable contrasts: Cosmopolitan prosperity – eager, surveilled, and compliant. Beneath the façade of astounding growth is lingering impoverishment.
We are energized by the scale of the capital. Commanding thoroughfares open to broad pedestrian shopping streets and gaudy westernized malls. Immense apartments blocks, ranging from grand to squalid, shoulder grey government bureaucracies. Imperial landmarks (Forbidden City) are ringed by feudal residential labyrinths (Hutongs).
A fascinating afternoon is spent wandering through 798 Art Zone, a complex of old decommissioned military factories presenting haunting architectural frames that house flowering artistic communities. A promising dimension of the “People’s” revolution is evident in quirky expressions in this vast industrial tract – unmuted art testing iron limits of political authority.
Although we seek simple, uncomplicated fare at local restaurants, we can’t resist the urgings of friends to sample TRB Hutong, a restored temple in a functioning working-class neighborhood. Surrounding lanes are narrow. The taxi driver unceremoniously drops us off 2 blocks from the entrance, and we are guided to the door by kind elderly locals.
We are treated to surprising rewards. Tasteful surroundings, friendly personalized service, and inventive French fusion are notable at this ambitious star in the world culinary scene.
At New Year’s matinee. we are lone westerners excitedly attending traditional Chinese Opera. Prior to curtain lifting, seven strict rules are announced – in Mandarin and, surprisingly, English: “No Standing; No Photos; No Videos; No Speaking; No Eating; No Smoking; No Nothing.”
Lights are dimmed. Shrill, piercing voices and ritual dancers trace meticulous observance of this classic form. We are spellbound. Quietly at first, we sense the audience slowly violating every stated prohibition – photographs, eating, talking, standing, smoking…tossing flowers!
Perhaps, festering behind the obedient wall of China is an ungovernable spirit of 1.5 billion souls.
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All images captured and edited on iPhone 11 Pro Max.
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Hi Howard-Nice collection and the curation shows. And, glad you made it to TRB-our most memorable meal ever.
Armchair traveling is all we got! More please.
Ahh the good old days, just after the British Raj and just before Little Richard died, right?
Dear Howard,
I am so happy you are blogging, and completely mesmerized by your words and your chronicles of your trip to China.
WOW! What perfect timing and the photos are breathtaking.
Hugs,
Meta
W-h-a-a-a-a-t? You were in Beijing in January?? Whew!! That was a close one, Can’t wait to hear about your other two viral episodes.
Great pictures as always (the last one is my favorite) and thank you for sharing your adventures.
Much love,
Martha
Lovely descriptions and photos!
Had similar impressions in Shanghai, where my parents shacked up during the war for two years after meeting in Kunming…He proposed to her in the Temple of Heaven in what was then (to Westerners) Peking
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