London, deconstructed

“You find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.”         

-Samuel Johnson

“Rain gray town, known for its sound”  – The Byrds

Seemingly overnight, Summer awakens London as it hopscotches Spring. Blossoms explode aside dreary pubs, drinkers pouring out, pints and vapes in hand. Change is afoot everywhere in the Commonwealth Capitol.

Our center in London for 2 weeks is Rosebery Aparthotel in trending Clerkenwell. It’s an approachable area, near friendly Exmouth Market, similar in feel to British villages 30 years ago, however with much better food and vibes.

Let’s get to the essentials:

Food

Best meal was around the corner from our digs at Quality Chop House:   https://thequalitychophouse.com  It is run by a “thirty something” who is the son of Britain’s legendary wine critic (mother) and the restaurant reviewer from the FT (father). “Ingredient-centered”; simple food, well prepared.

Reasonably priced, unfussy, it would be a winner in NYC, Napa, or anywhere. This is a must for any future visit. Adjoining provisions shop bears extraordinary full-fruit jams, farm cheeses, orange-yolk eggs, pampered meat.

Another recommendation is Moro in Exmouth Market: http://moro.co.uk/menu/. Spanish/ Moroccan influences. A little loud (hehhhh…?) just a notch down the critical scale from QCH (above) and memorable.

We manage to take in Pho (2x) at tiny Ngon Ngon, also in the hood:   http://www.ngonngon.co.uk/menu1/  Sometimes ya’ just want chicken-soup-comfort a la Hanoi style.

Lunch at Frog by Adam Handling, https://www.adamhandling.co.uk , with former intern at our firm, who proudly has grown to be a star consultant here. We usually shun hip glitz and designer liveried wait staff, however the inventiveness and unexpected preparations entertain and please.  Chef is Scottish!

Gail’s Breads and Marks and Spenser Greek yogurt fill in the AM gaps over coffee..

Entertainment

We catch The Ferryman (Jez Butterworth) in the West End. Astonishing, especially the extended opening act: ensemble acting, subtle, nuanced writing, epic engagement, and extremely relevant.

Amadeus at the National Theatre (Southbank) is a revival of body and soul. Great theatre mixed with divinely-inspired music and unforgettable dialog by Peter Shaffer. Bravo!

Opera: Marriage of Figaro at ENO (2nd-tier company). Enjoyable, not the Met, though Mozart’s exquisite craft shines through.

[Pre-theatre curry thali at Masala Zone http://www.masalazone.com/locations/covent-garden/ highly recommended for quick taste buzz.]  (See Food)

For proper Opera: Russian Lady Macbeth of Mtsensk at the Royal Opera.  Challenging, discordant, providing opportunity for well-needed sleep. Wagner seems like Gilbert & Sullivan in comparison to Shostakovich.

Incredible photo exhibit at Hayward: German Andreas Gursky. Vast, impressive scale and creative vision. My iPhone will never be quite the same.

Towering Tate Modern across the Thames is a treasure. We worship in the Rothko room – a billion $ of overwhelming art set in dim meditation.

Saatchi Gallery, nobly set in Chelsea is always a “can’t miss” treat with revolving exhibits.

Excursions

Hi-speed train to Whitstable, not far from Dover, an off-beat coastal hamlet. Strolling along Eastern shore, in newly discovered sunshine, produces its own culinary reward: lunch of fresh, meaty oysters and Dover sole at Whitstable Oyster Fishery Company.  http://whitstableoystercompany.com/menu/  (cross reference Food)

An unexpected enchantment is bright 4-mile walk along Regent’s Canal – from Little Venice to Camden Locks.

London reveals a vein of quiet canal life moving though palatial St. John’s Wood with a terminus at bustling Camden Locks, now pulsing international Street Food stalls in Dickensian spectacle.

Haircut

Stephano at Roots in humble Exmouth expertly harmonizes hirsute for Lisa and I. Good cappuccino pair with the cut. Watch for errant hair in the coffee.

____________________________________________________________

All images captured and curated on iPhoneX. Click on any pic to ride the photo carousel: