Extraordinary pleasure of simple things

‘Berlin, the greatest cultural extravaganza that one could imagine.’   — David Bowie

Scene I

“You have committed a criminal act!” With that condemnation, our accuser and judge, a plainclothes DB Bahnhof fare inspector, wearing “Brooklyn” emblazoned sweatshirt, puffy vest, “Chicago Bulls” baseball hat, deflated us to un-remediated offenders.

Our crime? Miscalculating our day-pass ticket cost by €1.60! Never mind that the machine wouldn’t initially accept our Visa card. Disregard the pressure imposed by a foul-breathed old drunkard hanging over my shoulder as I struggled to navigate a DIY ticket machine. Forget that wintery Good Friday was our first trip on the transit system. We were guilty of a serious violation of the rules.

The penalty of €120 is extorted from us on the spot by 3 burly transit cops. …Or else consequences will show-up on our “permanent record”! We fold like overcooked spaetzli.

We shock back to sobering reality: there are rules in Germany, and they will be enforced with a polite, yet iron hand!

Scene II

This indignation stands in high contrast to our general experience returning to Berlin – a surprising city of refined old-world character set against edgy, new-wave sensibilities.

We are treated to simple pleasures strolling through quiet, reclaimed neighborhoods. Food often deepens feelings of immersion. “Extraheiss” cappuccino, accompanied by home-baked cakes at woman-run Die Stulle, evoke grandma’s memory.

Snacks and light bites (doner kebabs and spicy wurst) that span the ethno-culinary spectrum offer mid-day geschmeckt. Salads and fresh-juiced digestives are the staples of superfood hipsters. Superb pho and “Green” Asian food offerings are local faves that we return to, often.  Hearty German fare of schnitzel and calves liver satiate- when ya’ just gotta do it!

At the slightest hint of warmth, drinkers and diners linger at outdoor tables for hours. We can’t forget sitting in fragile sunshine under woolen blankets at Pasternak savoring steaming beet borscht and Russian ryebrot.

Scene III

We are in residence at storied Hotel Am Steinplatz in (potentially) leafy Charlottenburg. The blossoms of spring are still huddled in branches awaiting Winter’s siege to break. We often think there is little reason to leave this village within a city, as everything we require is close by.

We begin our mornings with daily bio-saunas in the private, immaculate spa, a floor above our room. This routine sets the tone of revitalized calm for the day. We are slowly decoding the energy of this town: there is no rush.

Musical highlights bracket our day-to-day “as and when” explorations:  Bach’s intimate, sublime St. John’s Passion with chorus at Kaiser Wilhelm Church on frosty Good Friday. Italian opera sung in German at very correct Deutsche Oper reveals high standards for music in this burg. Wagner’s Parsifal, along with large, soft pretzels and diet coke, transfix our souls for five hours at the Berliner Philharmoniker!

Berlin is vast, varied, cosmopolitan, gritty, radical, traditional, exciting, haunted, sometimes a bit scary, and under the radar of most visitors to Europe. Its energetic future is eclipsing its disturbing past.

David Bowie discovered something happening here 40 years ago. We’re just catching on.

All images captured on iPhoneX.  Click any pic to ride the photo carousel.