Big in Tonga (almost)

Thirteen hours to Auckland, 3-hour flight to Nuku’alofa (main Tongan city), 1-hour hop to Vava’u (northern Tongan island group), 30 min. bus ride, and finally a 45 min. boat ride to Mala, our little private isle in the South Pacific.

My Japanese affiliates and I have embarked on our semi-annual adventure travel/consultant training.

So here we are (14 Japanese consultants, 3 wives, 5 real cute kids, and me) in Tonga to swim with the Humpback whales who migrate to Vava’u nurturing newborn calves in the protected Pacific lagoons for 3 months before returning to Antarctica.

My colleague Zen and his wife Yukiko were here 2 years ago, and were compelled to return given the unique thrill of getting intimate in the wild with 80-ton whales and nursing babies who gain about 150 lbs. a day on rich milk.

Tonga itself is an anthropologist’s laboratory of missionary-cultured, sweet, friendly, and mostly large natives. The whales provide some welcome tourist trade every “summer”.

Besides the hotel staff, we were the only occupants on Mala. The accommodation was post-cyclone motif Polynesia. The abject condition added a sort of rough camping experience that awakens the senses – cold showers, bugs, lizard in the room, failed plumbing. It was actually fun.

The food, served by good natured women (all sister, cousins, or aunts) who were thrilled with visitors, was serviceable – they aimed to please: warm beer served with ice cubes, copious amounts of raw fish, BBQ chicken with french-fried taro and local sweet potatoes , morning eggs and bacon with white bread – usually cold but perversely delicious given our biological requirements for nutrition to brace for a day of diving and snorkeling with the Leviathans in the elements.

My Japanese partners are always a delight to be with: working together under the banyan tree; flag football on the beach; the thrill of sighting a whale blowing in the distance; endless companionship and fun at dinner; hula dancing with the waitresses; devotion, gratitude, and passion to learn the next levels of consulting mastery.

Aside from the incomparable thrill of swimming within 10 yards of the calm and majestic Humpbacks, the highlight of the adventure was our invitation to a Tongan church service and specially prepared feast on another island with 26 native inhabitants. Our Australian tour guide negotiated with the chief of police and other officials to get an exclusive dispensation to conduct this visit on a Sunday, which is a strictly enforced Sabbath on the islands.

We were escorted by the head steward of the Free Wesleyan Church, who is the King’s brother (that is he and I sharing a happy hug). The service with the entire population in their dignified Sunday best was moving – Tongan gospel with rich and powerful harmonies amid the heat and humidity.

The roast pig and abundant side dishes, served on banana leaf was deserving of a second helping, and saying Grace again was not required.

This was an adventure to remember. I’m off next to meet up with Lisa in Auckland to tour the snowy and majestic South Island of New Zealand (think Lord of the Rings).

I remain humbled and grateful for this wonderful life.

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