Bolzano / Bozen

Some say pomadoro, some say tomate…

We have migrated to the northern Italian transitional community of Bolzano / Bozen, where the Dolomite Mountains rise into Austria. While we crossed no international border, it is culturally clear that we touched down on the doorstep of the Tyrol.

The civic order, architecture, language, dress, and food (think hearty baked goods) have taken a Teutonic shift. Everything shares two names, wood is stacked in perfect symmetry, Audis outnumber Alfa Romeos and Austro-Bavarian dialects prevail.

Bolzano is a hub for skiing and, in summer, mountaineering and hiking. Bicycles rule at intersections and in the mostly pedestrian old part of town – think Boulder, Colorado with medieval and art-nouveau flourishes.

We were immediately comfortable in this charming setting and energized by the cool climate, and welcoming civility.

Our accommodation is the family run, hillside Hanny Hotel (http://www.hotelhanny.it/en/holiday-bolzano.html) – on the edge of town – surrounded by terraced vineyards, waterfalls, and 12^th century castles. Our host, Herr Riegler supervises one of the best kitchens in town, assisted by waiter supreme, Massimo (cool Ray-Ban Peter Sellers’ glasses), who reassured us we didn’t have to search far for sustenance.

The advent of Spring Asparagus (the pampered white varietal, as well as the familiar green) is somewhat of a religious festival in this borough. Pastas, risottos, appetizers, main courses all sport the white and green motifs of the rain kissed spring shoots.

Centrally situated in this lovely sub-alpine valley, we were able to hike from our lodging to Maretsch Castle, and take advantage of marvelously designed neighborhood pathways for walking and biking (townie bikes courtesy of Family Riegler).

We navigated between the cool showers without damping our gratitude for the simple pleasures of our continuing journey. Just off in the distance, snow covered Alps, granite cliffs, and patchworks of high mountain villages beckoned us onward, via train to Salzburg.

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