My grandfather, at age 14, walked from Romania (Moldova) to Rotterdam to gain passage to America. I imagine him, apart from the trials of that journey, traveling through the great Utcas of Budapest: marveling at the monuments of the Hapsburg Empire, the Villas along tree-lined boulevards, elaborate public hot-spring spas, the majestic stores and apartments, towering churches and synagogues; noble bridges spanning the Danube and connecting the metropolis of Pest to the spire-topped hills of Buda.
The relics of the that grand era are still here, faded and scarred by wars, economic depressions, occupations and genocides by National Socialists (Nazis), the dehumanizing era of Soviet communism, and the crushed revolution of 1956. Of all the places we visited on our serpentine adventure (Rome, Florence, Venice, Salzburg, Vienna), Budapest was the most difficult to decode – to unconceal it’s soul.
Its culture is on a challenging rebound, yet we sensed great energy, and youthful vitality here. We gained much of that impression from Albert, our host at his stylish B&B Kapital Inn, in the heart of the city.
The train station where we arrived on the “RailJet” from Austria is a horror of crumbling neglect clamoring with aggressive free-lance cabbies and stout women advertising cheap accommodations. We negotiated our taxi fare in Euros (Forints are the Hungarian currency – just add lots of zeros to any conversion) and had anxious reservations about this old city and the unknown appeal of Eastern Europe. The disarmingly friendly and honest driver, along with the American R&R on the radio, put us more at ease.
We rang the bell of the apartment building that we had researched on TripAdvisor. Moments later Albert, smiling and baseball capped (he studied in Boston for 6 years), grabbed our 2 HEAVY bags and sprung up 120 worn marble stairs to the 5th floor travel oasis he has created.
Kapitol Inn was easily the most comfortable environment of the 11 locations we stayed during our trip. Once again we were the only guests, and we had free access to the kitchen, and the lovely outdoor common area with flat screened TV where we sipped tea and luxuriated while watching the Royal Wedding.
Upon our arrival Albert took out a map and laid out a perfect walking tour of the city with expert guidance on the essential sites, restaurants, and attractions. We managed to drop by the magnificent Opera House and (again) cop the last 2 tickets (third row) to Tosca, performed by an outstanding, all Hungarian cast.
Budapest is on a scale where power walking, and a few quick rides on the ancient metro, allowed us to cover the major sites in 2 days. Everyone speaks English, since no visitor is expected to even attempt Hungarian, which is apparently derived from Finnish! In between our excursions, and before and after our day, Albert would enthrall us with the history, politics, and current struggles of the country.
One of his anecdotes is particularly instructive – when entering the metro there are 3 options to buy a ticket: (1) there are 2 old “communists” who stand guarding the ticket stamping machine and who are supposed to ensure compliance and sell tickets if asked – however, they just point and send you over to a (2) kasse with a bored person inside who will sell you tickets and make change; and there is (3) an automated ticket machine between them. This is a perfect metaphor for the excesses and attitudes of State-run Socialism.
One experience Albert practically pleaded us to try, was the ornate public spas that house huge hot baths and saunas and other life giving properties. Budapest sits on hundreds of thermal springs and public bathing is the major social activity of the citizenry. Once we saw the Spa, with its Seurat-like tableau of bathers, we would have gladly partaken if time and schedule allowed.
We vowed to Albert, that we would be back…
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Again wonderful. Have a safe journey home and thank you for sharing your trip with us.