Dolce amore a Verona

“…Heaven is here
Where Juliet lives, and every cat and dog
And little mouse, every unworthy thing,
Live here in heaven and may look on her…”

– William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet, 3.3

Verona, the Florence of the North, is a treasure of sublime colors, elegant Piazzas, flavorful wine, and sophisticated charm, all on a relaxed scale that is easy to navigate.

Our home for 3 days is Villa Beatrice, a B&B in the lovely hills just above town run by host, Simone. Each morning we are treated to nutritious breakfasts on the veranda, expert advice regarding the best sights and digestive venues, and reports on his new Romanian love, Angelica.  After our morning repast of freshly made fruit juices (“medicine,” as Simone refers to the apple, pear, kiwi, carrot, and ginger blend), home-made rice cake, yogurt, and tea – we hitch up Zeus, the family Border collie, for an invigorating constitutional around the hilltop villas in the ‘hood.

We have designated Piazza della Erbe, in the heart of Verona, as the the most beautiful square in all of Italy. It is there each day we return to Casa Mazzanti, where we perch at an elegant table, resting on the ancient khaki/dove-grey marble pavement for our insalata and Coca-Light. Given that the local specialities are horse-meat and donkey, we usually step lightly towards vegetables, pasta, polenta, and pesto at dinner.

Yesterday, at Simone’s direction, we took an excursion to the nearby vineyard-ringed town of Soave. Although the whole “Bolla” thing appears to have peaked in the States with the wine-spritzer era, we found this walled town and Castle a perfect diversion for a poetic wine-paired lunch, and promenade.

After a sublime nap back at Villa Beatice we ventured back into Verona’s embrace for our second dinner at Osteria da Ugo, where we were compelled to repeat earlier highlights: courgette flowers stuffed with ricotta, bigli with duck, beef cheeks with polenta, and torte frutta.

As we dined at our open window table, Lisa and I marveled at a cooling thunderstorm that perfumed the evening air.

“See, how she leans her cheek upon her hand!                                                                                                                                    O that I were a glove upon that hand,                                                                                                                                              that I might touch that cheek!”

– William Shakespeare, Romeo and Juliet, 2.2

We are off to the wonders of Venice today.

Una buona giornata!

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