Frau Steiner’s correct, yet warm welcome was the balm we required after an arduous train journey that snaked through the breathtaking Alps and delicate springtime valleys of Austria (our editorial policy forbids lurid descriptions of the exigencies of our carriages travails). Her modest B&B is situated on Moosstrasse on the edge of Salzburg, in an area described with farms, gasthaus, tree lined lanes, and well maintained, flower framed homes.
The cultural and topographic contrasts between Italy and Austria couldn’t be starker. Soft curves and random arrangements of fields and towns give way to sharp angles and fastidious organization. Sophia transforms to Heidi. Both have their charms and wonders, yet after 24 hours in Salzburg, it is hard to recall 3 weeks in Italy.
Palm Sunday was spectacularly clear and perfectly cool (64 degrees). Preparations for Easter are a big deal here, and any Sunday festivity is a general order for everyone to bust out their traditional Austrian dress: dirndls, lederhosen, loden coats with bone buttons – all with spring-themed pastel undertones.
We strolled into the dramatically beautiful town center, and discovered a matinee of Don Giovanni was on at the Landestheater. We rushed to the ticket office and secured 2 of the last seats. Just before the performance we had kaffee and warm topfenstrudel (egg and farmer’s cheese in phyllo) on the sunny terrace of the Hotel Sacher, overlooking the river and the castles and churches of Salzburg.
The performance was passionate, energetic, and superbly orchestrated and conducted. Young talent from Salzburg matures on to the international opera set. Neither Liesl (Lisa’s local handle) nor I slept a wink during the stirring production.
Austria has 891titles and degrees – the old order still lingers. I have asked people to address me as Herr Direktor for the duration.
Aside from Salzburg, our short trips to Hallstatt (fantasy town on an alpine lake, and Bertesgarten/ Konnigsee, just over the Bavaria border (hey, Der Fuhrer knew how to pick his vacation hideaways), affirmed that “the journey is indeed the reward.”
It is clear that Walt got the vision for his Land after seeing Austria – Glacier-covered peaks, lush fields, fairy tale spires, mirror lakes, and manicured villages of carved wood. Throw in Topogiggio (the mouse) and you have the whole deal.
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It’s a lot of fun following your adventures. And I like to hear that Austria is very heavy on titles. I’m working up a title for myself, something along the lines of Herr Coolio.
I love experiencing the unexpected, spontaneous magic on this journey with your photos and blog Thank you!. You both look like you are 16 going on 17 ;-),